Science

  • Nothing left off the list

    The full list is on every pack. The explanation of each one is here, including the boring ones.

  • Actives with their percentage

    Not "enriched with." The actual number, published here where there's room to explain it.

  • A permanent change log

    Change a formula, say what changed and why. Every claim here is footnoted, and where the evidence stops we say so.

01 — The starting point

Structure

The outer layer measures thinner

Using in-vivo confocal microscopy, researchers compared twenty healthy infants aged three to twenty-four months with their own biological mothers. Measured at the thigh, the infants' stratum corneum was around 30% thinner and the epidermis beneath it around 20% thinner, with smaller cells throughout.
Where it's contested: an earlier study measuring abdominal skin at autopsy found no significant difference in stratum corneum thickness between infants, children and adults.5 Thickness varies by body site and by measurement method. We mention this because a brand that only quotes the findings that suit it isn't being transparent, it's being selective.

Water

It handles water differently

Infant stratum corneum absorbs, holds and moves water in ways measurably different from adult skin — and those properties keep developing across the whole first year of life.2 A baby's skin takes water in faster and lets it go faster. That is the practical reason a wash matters more at this age than it will later.

Time

It keeps maturing for years

A study across four age groups from babies to adults found that barrier function keeps maturing well past infancy: water loss, lipid compactness, stratum corneum thickness and cell size only reach adult levels at around six years of age.3

02 — How we work

How an ingredient gets into a Gentle Touch bottle

We make things that work better and last longer. Our pFour steps, in this order. Step three is the one most brands skip, and step four is the one that makes the other three checkable.roducts solve real problems with clean design and honest materials.

  • Ask for the dossier

    Not the sales sheet. The full technical dossier: the extract's identity, the studies behind it, and the concentration each study used.

  • Read what kind of study it is

    Cells in a dish, tissue in a lab, or people. How many people, for how long, at what dose. A strong result in a dish is not a result on skin.

  • Dose it at the studied level

    If the research was run at one percent, we use one percent. A trace amount of a well-studied ingredient is a marketing decision, not a formulation one.

  • Publish all of it

    Every ingredient explained on this page, with the active's percentage alongside it. Change any of it later and the change goes in the log.

Image

Time

It keeps maturing for years

A study across four age groups from babies to adults found that barrier function keeps maturing well past infancy: water loss, lipid compactness, stratum corneum thickness and cell size only reach adult levels at around six years of age.3

03 — The actives

What's actually doing the work

Seventeen named ingredients across the range, each with the same card: what it is, where it comes from, which products it's in, and what we can and can't say about it.

Why we've split the list

Most brands list every branded ingredient together under "actives," so a thickener that gives a lotion its texture appears to be doing the same job as an extract chosen for its effect on skin. It reads as a longer list of benefits. It isn't. So we've separated them into three groups. The first is chosen for what it does to skin. The second is fats and oils. The third makes the product spreadable, stable and able to clean — necessary work, but not a skin benefit, and we're not going to dress it up as one.

[1-5%]
PER FORMULATION

DERMA-CLERA®

WHAT IT IS

A root extract from a plant long used in traditional Korean medicine. Radiant isolates and standardises it, which means each batch we buy is characterised the same way rather than varying with the harvest. It's the ingredient the September range is built around.

INCI NAME

Cynanchum atratum root extract, in aqua and butylene glycol

SUPPLIER

Radiant Co., Ltd. — South Korea

USED IN

Head-to-Toe Wash · Shampoo · Lotion · Barrier Repair Cream

TYPE

Patented extract, supplied under trade name

MACRO SLOT

jojoba seed

Welcome to Slide 2

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[LXX%]
PER FORMULATION

Welcome to Slide 1

WHAT IT IS

Not technically an oil. It's a liquid wax ester, which makes it structurally closer to skin's own sebum than most plant oils.

This is the first slide in Tab 2

INCI NAME

Simmondsia chinensis Seed Oil

SUPPLIER

India

USED IN

[Which products]

TYPE

The base - None of these are skin benefits.

MACRO SLOT

jojoba seed

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PER FORMULATION

Slide 1 Heading

WHAT IT IS

Not technically an oil. It's a liquid wax ester, which makes it structurally closer to skin's own sebum than most plant oils.

Slide 1 description

INCI NAME

Simmondsia chinensis Seed Oil

SUPPLIER

India

USED IN

[Which products]

TYPE

The base - None of these are skin benefits.

MACRO SLOT

jojoba seed

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